The Overstory of the American Forest: Walking a Thousand Miles With John Muir

benje williams
Climate Conscious
Published in
12 min readDec 3, 2020

--

In the understory of this journey, we began a thousand mile walk with John Muir, exploring his love for the forest. We walked underneath sequoias, alongside sugar pines, and through the invisible but ever-present wind of the woods. Here, in the overstory, we will wander deeper into man’s presence in those woods, ultimately asking Muir what we can do to protect the wild that still remains.

Man in the woods: vanishing our wilderness into dusty history

The continent’s outer beauty is fast passing away, Muir writes, gone into dusty history at the hands of man. But the forest war is not primarily from logging, as we’ve often been told, but from a much quieter and fluffier villain.

Our forests, the most valuable and the most destructible of all the natural resources of the country, are being robbed and burned more rapidly than ever.

Thoreau, when contemplating the destruction of the forests on the east side of the continent, said that soon the country would be so bald that every man would have to grow whiskers to hide its nakedness.

Bread, more than timber or beauty, was wanted; and in the blindness of hunger, the early settlers, claiming Heaven as their guide, regarded God’s trees as only a larger kind of pernicious weeds, extremely hard to get rid of. Accordingly, with no eye to the future, these pious destroyers waged interminable forest wars. Trees in their beauty fell crashing by millions, smashed to confusion, and the smoke of their burning has been rising to heaven more than two hundred years.

When the steel axe of the white man rang out on the startled air their doom was sealed. Every tree heard the bodeful sound, and pillars of smoke gave the sign in the sky.

Taking from the government [in the mind of a pioneer] is the same as taking from nature, and their consciences flinch no more in cutting timber from the wild forests than in draining water for a lake or river.

In these milling operations waste far exceeds use, for after the choice young manageable trees on any given spot have been felled, the woods are fired to clear the ground of limbs and refuse with reference to further operations, and, of course, most of the seedlings and saplings are destroyed.

The axe is not yet at the root of every tree, but the sheep is… Not only do the shepherds, at the driest time of the year, set fire to everything that will burn, but the sheep consume every green leaf, not sparing even the young conifers, and thus at last leave the ground barren.

Mill ravages are small as compared with the comprehensive destruction caused by “sheepmen.” Incredible numbers of sheep are driven to the mountain pastures every summer, and their course is ever marked by desolation. Every wild garden is trodden down, the shrubs are stripped of leaves as if devoured by locusts, and the woods are burned. Running fires are set everywhere, with a view to clearing the ground of prostrate trunks, to facilitate the movements of the flocks and improve the pastures. The entire forest belt is thus swept and devastated from one extremity of the range to the other, and, with the exception of the resinous Pinus contorta, Sequoia suffers most of all.

The fires of the sheepmen, or muttoneers, form more than ninety percent of all destructive fires that range the Sierra forests.

Only thirty years ago, the great Central Valley of California, five hundred miles long and fifty miles wide, was one bed of golden and purple flowers. Now it is ploughed and pastured out of existence, gone forever, — scarce a memory of it left in fence corners and along the bluffs of the streams. The gardens of the Sierra, also, and the noble forests in both the reserved and unreserved portions are sadly hacked and trampled, notwithstanding, the ruggedness of the topography, — all excepting those of the parks guarded by a few soldiers. In the noblest forests of the world, the ground, once divinely beautiful, is desolate and repulsive, like a face ravaged by disease.

Unfortunately, man is in the woods, and waste and pure destruction are making rapid headway. If the importance of forests were at all understood, even from an economic standpoint, their preservation would call forth the most watchful attention of government. Only of late years by means of forest reservations has the simplest groundwork for available legislation been laid, while in many of the finest groves every species of destruction is still moving on with accelerated speed.

The continent’s outer beauty is fast passing away, especially the plant part of it, the most destructible and most universally charming of all… Most of the wild plant wealth of the East also has vanished, — gone into dusty history.

Burning slash to make pasture land in NY; CA wildfire devastation (Camp, Caples Creek); thinning in El Dorado CA; massive blowdown from 110 mph wind in WV (photos by author)

Global forests and Uncle Sam: the fate of the remnant of our forests

Muir writes in depth about what other countries — Prussia, Japan, India, France, Switzerland, Russia — have done in order to protect their forests, bemoaning that America not only has the most beautiful forest, but also the most neglected and endangered. In doing so, Muir implores the US government to do better.

Every other civilized nation in the world has been compelled to care for its forests, and so must we if waste and destruction are not to go on to the bitter end.

Prussia has learned that the forest plays an important part in human progress, and that the advance in civilization only makes it more indispensable… The state woodlands are not allowed to lie idle. On the contrary, they are made to produce as much timber as is possible without spoiling them. In the administration of its forests, the state righteously considers itself bound to treat them as a trust for the nation as a whole, and to keep in view the common good of the people for all time.

It seems, therefore, that almost every civilized nation can give us a lesson on the management and care of forests. So far our government has done nothing effective with its forests, though the best in the world, but is like a rich and foolish spendthrift who has inherited a magnificent estate in perfect order, and then has left his fields and meadows, forests and parks, to be sold and plundered and wasted at will, depending on their inexhaustible abundance. Now it is plain that the forests are not inexhaustible, and that quick measures must be taken if ruin is to be avoided. Year by year the remnant is growing smaller before the axe and fire, while the laws in existence provide neither for the protection of the timber from destruction nor for its use where it is most needed.

The fate of the remnant of our forests is in the hands of the federal government, and that if the remnant is to be saved at all, it must be saved quickly.

Uncle Sam is not often called a fool in business matters, yet he has sold millions of acres of timber land at two dollars and a half an acre on which a single tree was worth more than a hundred dollars.

The making of the far-famed New York Central Park was opposed by even good men, with misguided pluck, perseverance, and ingenuity; but straight right won its way, and now that park is appreciated. So we confidently believe it will be with our great national parks and forest reservations. There will be a period of indifference on the part of the rich, sleepy with wealth, and of the toiling millions, sleepy with poverty, most of whom never saw a forest; a period of screaming protest and objection from the plunderers, who are as unconscionable and enterprising as Satan. But light is surely coming, and the friends of destruction will preach and bewail in vain.

Any fool can destroy trees. They cannot run away; and if they could, they would still be destroyed, — chased and hunted down as long as fun or a dollar could be got out of their bark hides, branching horns, or magnificent bole backbones. Few that fell trees plant them; nor would planting avail much towards getting back anything like the noble primeval forests. During a man’s life, only saplings can be grown, in the place of the old trees — tens of centuries old — that have been destroyed. It took more than three thousand years to make some of the trees in these Western woods, — trees that are still standing in perfect strength and beauty, waving and singing in the mighty forests of the Sierra. Through all the wonderful, eventful centuries since Christ’s time — and long before that — God has cared for these trees, saved them from drought, disease, avalanches, and a thousand straining, leveling tempests and floods; but he cannot save them from fools, — only Uncle Sam can do that.

Light coming through the American Elm canopy in Central Park; a 700+ year-old incense cedar in Tahoe National Forest; a coastal tea tree in Golden Gate Park (photos by author)

Working forests: Timber is as necessary as bread

Unlike many environmentalists of yesterday and today, Muir is not proposing that we leave nature untouched, that we keep it “forever-wild” or allow it to lie idle. Instead, his plea is to find a balance, like the example from Prussia, recognizing the basic needs of humanity, and the ability of the forest to respond to those needs, when managed in a sustainable way. Timber is as necessary as bread, and the forest, when approached with reverence, can be a source of life and sustenance for all of nature, including man.

I suppose we need not go mourning the buffaloes. In the nature of things they had to give place to better cattle. Likewise, many of nature’s five hundred kinds of wild trees had to make way for orchards and cornfields. Though the change might have been made without barbarous wickedness.

The dawn of a new day of forestry is breaking… Emerson says that things refuse to be mismanaged long. An exception would seem to be found in the case of our forests, which have been mismanaged rather long, and now come desperately near being like smashed eggs and spilt milk. Still, in the long run, the world does not move backward.

In their natural condition, or under wise management, keeping out destructive sheep, preventing fires, selecting the trees that should be cut for lumber, and preserving the young ones and the shrubs and sod of herbaceous vegetation, these forests would be a never failing fountain of wealth and beauty.

Many of the miners find that timber is already becoming scarce and dear on the denuded hills around their mills, and they, too, are asking for protection of forests, at least against fire. The slow-going, unthrifty farmers, also, are beginning to realize that when the timber is stripped from the mountains the irrigating streams dry up in summer, and are destructive in winter; that soil, scenery, and everything slips off with the trees: so, of course, they are coming into the ranks of tree-friends.

The United States government has always been proud of the welcome it has extended to good men of every nation, seeking freedom and homes and bread. Let them be welcomed still as nature welcomes them, to the woods as well as to the prairies and plains. No place is too good for good men, and still, there is room. They are invited to heaven, and may well be allowed in America. Every place is made better by them. Let them be as free to pick gold and gems from the hills, to cut and hew, dig and plant, for homes and bread, as the birds are to pick berries from the wild bushes, and moss and leaves for nests. The ground will be glad to feed them, and the pines will come down from the mountains for their homes as willingly as the cedars came from Lebanon for Solomon’s temple. Nor will the woods be the worse for this use, or their benign influences be diminished any more than the sun is diminished by shining. Mere destroyers, however, tree-killers, spreading death and confusion in the fairest groves and gardens ever planted, let the government hasten to cast them out and make an end of them.

Mixed conifer and hardwood logs in Adirondacks NY; cows and forest working together in Watkins Glen NY; sugar maple tapping in the Arnot Research Forest NY (photos by author)

Lovers of the wild: Only in darkness does vandalism flourish

Perhaps the great secret of Muir’s writing, the silent unspoken voice compelling his hand to pen down his fascination of the world, is that we might learn to see nature as he sees it, and in doing so, that we might also come to love it, and above all else, that we might learn how to protect it.

Nature’s object in making animals and plants might possibly be first of all the happiness of each one of them, not the creation of all for the happiness of one. Why should man value himself as more than a small part of the one great unit of creation? And what creature of all that the Lord has taken the pains to make is not essential to the completeness of that unit — the cosmos? The universe would be incomplete without man; but it would also be incomplete without the smallest transmicroscopic creature that dwells beyond our conceitful eyes and knowledge. From the dust of the earth, from the common elementary fund, the Creator has made Homo sapiens. From the same material he has made every other creature, however noxious and insignificant to us.

Wander here a whole summer, if you can. Thousands of God’s wild blessings will search you and soak you as if you were a sponge, and the big days will go by uncounted. If you are business-tangled, and so burdened with duty that only weeks can be get out of the heavy-laden year… give a month at least to this precious reserve. The time will not be taken from the sum of your life. Instead of shortening, it will indefinitely lengthen it and make you truly immortal. Nevermore will time seem short or long, and cares will never again fall heavily on you, but gently and kindly as gifts from heaven.

To lovers of the wild, these mountains are not a hundred miles away. Their spiritual power and the goodness of the sky make them near, as a circle of friends… Presently you lose consciousness of your own separate existence: you blend with the landscape, and become part and parcel of nature.

The tendency nowadays to wander in wildernesses is delightful to see. Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity, and that mountain parks and reservations are useful not only as fountains of timber and irrigating rivers, but as fountains of life. Awakening from the stupefying effects of the vice of over-industry and the deadly apathy of luxury, they are trying as best they can to mix and enrich their own little ongoings with those of Nature, and to get rid of rust and disease.

If every citizen could take one walk through this reserve, there would be no more trouble about its care; for only in darkness does vandalism flourish

Nature is always ready to heal every scar.

Lovers of the wild; prescribed burn by CAL FIRE; a USFS forester standing on an abandoned coal mine we are restoring in WV (see theunderstory.org for more) (photos by author)

--

--

benje williams
Climate Conscious

“it is common to take a dog for a walk, it is less common to take a dream for a walk” || nature novel in progress || recent writing at benjewilliams.org